Sunday, 29 June 2025

Euro 2025 ~ They came to mend the future ...


... and we who live in that future have a duty to always ensure, that the memory of those who fought and died in Normandy should never become a footnote of history.


This morning, I leave Normandy to drive south to Paris, from there I will catch an afternoon flight to Dublin. Then tomorrow morning I will return to Nova Scotia from Ireland’s capital, marking the end of this marvellous trip ~ Euro 2025.

The high expectations I had garnered for Ireland were vastly exceeded. I had an absolutely fantastic time exploring many parts of this wonderful country, with its incredible rugged scenery and stunning wild Atlantic coast. I deliberately chose lodgings in remote locations, and thoroughly enjoyed the magical Irish welcome and beautiful deep culture in each.

It is often the case when people visit and enjoy locations within their own country or abroad, they say ~ “I will definitely be back …” ~ I tend not to do that. The reason is simple ~ I believe there are far too many other places that must be seen and experienced. Therefore, when travelling I prefer to retain my memories with lots of photos and many written notes, about the things I saw, the people I met and the places I visited. Having said that, in the case of Ireland, it is with much certainty that I will return. In my time travelling around, I have created an enormous thirst to see more of this outstanding country, with its beautiful scenery, dramatic coastline and friendly culture. With Ireland's easy access from Nova Scotia, I could leave my home in Pleasantville, travel to the airport, take the flight, and in less than seven hours be in Dublin ~ therefore, it makes perfect sense to put Ireland back on my Bucket List.

It was interesting to note, everywhere I went in this amazing country there was always a pub. Regardless the size of a village or how remote it might be, there was without exception at least one, but usually more. Apparently there are currently 6680 across the 26 counties which make up The Republic of Ireland.

As a result of this visit to Ireland, I now have much more pride over past discoveries from my family tree research, from which I determined that I am 1/8 Irish ~ but have to admit, that I am also 1/8 English ~ I guess nobody can be perfect ...!!!

Ireland and along with its beautiful accent full of outlandish  slang, and flowing musical intonations will certainly stay with me for a long time ....


Normandy .....

The sun has risen over the beaches of Normandy many times since June 6, 1944. The blood that stained the sand has long since washed away. What took place here on D-Day represented more than the fate of a war, but rather the course of human history. I was absolutely delighted to have finally made my long-awaited visit to the beaches of Normandy.

On the morning of 6 June 1944, by the thousands paratroopers and glider troops were sent behind enemy lines to secure bridges and exit roads. Then at 6:30am, the landings by sea began. By the end of the day, 156,000 Allied troops had successfully stormed and captured five Normandy beaches, but the price that day was high ~ 4441 lost their lives. Less than a year later, the Allies formally accepted Nazi Germany’s surrender. During those eleven months, many more lives were lost on all sides of the conflict, changing not only the future of countries, but that of many families, including my own.

Along the 100Km (62 mile) invasion coastline and inland, I passed countless memorials dedicated to those who died and to the battles they fought. Within the region, I had the enormous privilege of visiting some of the stunning and truly unforgettable war cemeteries maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC), American Battle Monuments Commission and Volksbund Deutsche Kriegsgräberfürsorge, all tragically sad and enormously beautiful in equal measures. In complete contrast to the events that brought them into being, they convey a permanent deep sense of peace and tranquility. 

Almost 130,000 soldiers, both Allied and German, lost their lives in Normandy in 1944, there are 30 locations which contain their war graves, 2 American, 19 CWGC, 1 French, 6 German, 1 Polish and 1 Russian.

There are many messages in all war cemeteries, of which I believe the primary one is ~ war graves are the great communications for peace. I have now stood in many such locations in The Netherlands, Normandy, The Somme in France, Flanders in Belgium and other places in between. When there, it is easy to view the rows of identically shaped gravestones as uniform and regimented ~ that is partly the impression they are intended to provide, reflecting the military comradeship these individuals shared in life, which continues in death.

With every visit I have made to a war cemetery, it always becomes a reminder of the enormous sacrifice made by so many ~ you not only see, but can feel the price of freedom. I will never forget the first time I stood among the rows of pristine white gravestones, immaculate lawns and colourful borders of a CWGC cemetery. It was during April 2000 in Leopoldsburg, Belgium, it was a deep and very personal experience, one that will forever remain etched in my memory. 

Reading each name, each age, each personal inscription engraved with such care into the hard white stone, is always telling reminder of the human cost of war, as well as the extraordinary diversity of those involved in it. A visit to any of those cemeteries or memorials is always a forceful reminder, of the debt we can never fully repay to those who gave their lives for us.

Last year after my visit to many WWI and WWII cemeteries in The Netherlands, Belgium and France, I wrote the following ~

“When I look around the world today, there is no peace. I see far too many wars of aggression inspired by land or sea grabs, religious or cultural differences, political doctrines and more. There are suppressive dictators who are highly charged by fear, insecurity and egotism, who at the expense of their population, continue to develop armaments and weapons that can reach across the continents and oceans. At the same time as witnessing all that, I continue to look through the long lens of history to the two great wars of the 20th century, the beginnings and similarities of how those conflicts evolved, gives a strong sense that history may be about to repeat itself.

During my recent travels, I have passed many thousands of acres of consecrated ground, containing tens of thousands of graves, it leads me to ask ~ have we learned nothing from the past and why do we always want to do this all over again …?”

~ Unfortunately,  a year on from writing that, I am no closer to an answer.


At Normandy, the guys who came ashore on the morning of June 6, 1944 and in the days afterwards, seen too much in too short a time, living a lifetime in a day, death had undone so many of them, many hopes and dreams extinguished in the prime of life. They fought for their country, they fought for their friends, they fought for their family, they fought for those who might someday remember them. They left home barely more than boys and returned as heroes. But to their great credit, that is not how this generation carried itself. After the war, many put away their medals and were quiet about their service, they rolled up their sleeves, created the baby boom and moved on. Others who carried shrapnel, scars and deep wounds, found that moving on to be much harder.

Today eight decades on, the Normandy countryside shows few signs of the savage fighting that took place during the summer of 1944. The ruined villages, towns and cities have been restored. The coastal villages from Arromanches to Ouistreham are once again thriving resorts packed with holiday makers throughout the summer months. But within all that tourism, I have seen while travelling around the region, the memory of D-Day and the great Allied invasion has been carefully preserved. Along the entire Normandy coast are monuments, museums and cemeteries to remind today’s visitors of the historic events of June 1944.

On my first full day in Normandy, I had to deal with some truly unexpected levels of emotion while visiting the British Sword and Canadian Juno Beaches. Many areas adjacent to both beaches and slightly inland are lined with holiday homes, hotels and restaurants, with folks sitting out on a terrace having lunch, indulging in a glass of wine, all while enjoying what was a light warm breeze bringing with it that lovely aroma of sea salt. On the beaches there were people sun-bathing, swimming, playing sports and taking part in other normal summer activities. Upon seeing this and not giving much consideration to anything else, I began to feel a burning indignation, which almost bordered on outrage. I was allowing my thoughts and my sight, to unjustly assume a lack of respect towards the memory of those lads, who had been cut down just a few feet away on those beaches. I was only at the beginning of my Normandy visit and genuinely felt, that I could not go ahead with the plans I had made for the days ahead. In parallel with reality of the summer activities going on around me, within my thoughts I could see the gloomy grey skies that hung over Normandy on that June 6th, 81 years ago ~ the treacherous waves battering landing craft, young soldiers sick sea in the swells, bullets flying over their heads, the ramps going down, with even more hell about to be unleashed. Machine gun nests attacking, sending thousands of rounds to bite into flesh, explosions followed by the screams of agony, and then the blood-soaked sea. I began to see the images of those painful notifications that would come later, in the form of telegrams from the war office, sent to so many mothers and new widows. I know about those brief but tragically direct messages, which every family with a son or husband in uniform learned to fear, in my family I had five relatives killed in war, the accounts of those telegrams arriving have been passed down to me ~ therefore such things have become personal.

Growing up I had seen firsthand and recognized even as a young child, the impact those family losses had over the decades, particularly with my father, but also, with my grandparents and others within the family, the fallout and grief never diminished or lessoned with time. I was raised to respect and maintain the memory those relatives killed in war, to never forget all they had given up and where they gave it up ~ during that first morning in Normandy at Sword and Juno Beaches, I was looking across the sand, to where so many “gave it up”, and it was having an enormous and profound affect upon me.

Sitting initially at Sword Beach, with everything that was going on around me and in my head, I knew that I had to bring my thoughts and emotions into check. I had to consider the reasons for D-Day and what it was actually about. The guys who came ashore on those beaches, did so to liberate Europe, and return democracy to those who had been living and suffering under five long years of a brutal and restrictive military occupation. The liberation began with an Airborne drop behind enemy lines, followed by Allied footsteps on those beaches. It continued through France, into Belgium and The Netherlands, until many of the survivors of D-Day reached Berlin some 11 months later. Their aim that day, along with many other campaigns and sacrifices that followed until Victory in Europe Day (V.E. Day), was to return the basic freedoms without restrictions to those that had been occupied ~ and yes I concluded, that means the freedom to enjoy without limitations the beautiful Normandy coast.

I have no idea what my expectations were prior to my visit, perhaps it was to see the beaches restricted in a sacred and consecrated way, set apart and venerated to a point of being fenced off memorials. In truth when one thinks about the geographical reach of both WWI and WWII, there are many places in Europe and in fact the world, that 20th century history will forever record as Killing Fields. Vast areas like those Normandy beaches that bear witness to wars human devastation, destruction and deep personal loss ~ it would be impossible and completely impractical to treat or claim all those lands and seas as revered memorials.

Even as early as it was that first full day in Normandy, I had already seen while on my way to Sword and Juno Beaches, the recognition and deep respect for what happened here during summer 1944. During my travels on the days that followed , I became thoroughly aware that this part of the Normandy region, is dedicated in many respectful and appreciative ways to maintaining the rightful memory of those who came ashore here. Within this region of France, the legacy of those who died on each of the five beaches and in the areas to the south, is in very good hands. It only takes a short drive through the countryside or a walk along a seafront, to be summoned back to the realities of D-Day and the Normandy campaign. 

I have learned firsthand on my travels to World War sites in The Netherlands, Belgium and France, the people of those countries will never forget the men who came to mend their future.


Poem "The Longest Day" by Rob Aitchison ~ 

Do not call me hero

When you see the medals that I wear

Medals maketh not the hero

They just prove that I was there

 

Do not call me hero

Now that I am old and grey

I left a lad returned a man

They stole my youth that day

 

Do not call me hero

When we ran the wall of hail

The blood, the fears, the cries, the tears

We left them where they fell

 

Do not call me hero

Each night I stop and pray

For all the friends I knew and lost

I survived my longest day

 

Do not call me hero

In the years that pass

For all the real true heroes

Have crosses, lined upon the grass



From the Imperial War Museum, an American-commentator's account of some of the action that took place during the Normandy Landings, click on the image or the link below ~

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjCR9YrU2Q0


From the Imperial War Museum a video from the 75th anniversary of D-Day, covering Winton Churchill's visit to Normandy after the invasion ~

From British Pathé, a video on how the news about D-Day was reported ~ 


A 10-minute British Movietone report on Operation Overlord, D-Day ~


The following are links to war related blogs from my "Euro 2024" visits to Scotland, The Netherlands, Belgium and France, click on the image or link ~ 







Saturday, 28 June 2025

Euro 2025 ~ A morning wander on a beach ...

With nothing planned for this day, I started it early with a very long wander on Juno Beach. The only company I had were a couple of horses and their riders. With the tide out the beach was absolutely huge, it reminded me of the one at Dunkirk I wrote about in my recent blog titled ~ “Euro 2025 ~ Normandy”.




While walking along the water’s edge enjoying the very peaceful surroundings and the perfect light warm wind, my thoughts were consumed more with the past than the present. They went back to the early morning hours of Tuesday 6th June 1944, and to the hell that was unleashed upon the first wave of Canadians from the 3rd Infantry Division, who came ashore under a constant barrage of enemy fire. That morning 381 volunteers from Canada died on the beach or just south of the adjacent sand dunes ~ for someone who has a passion for remembering and preserving their memory, the thoughts were more than overwhelming for me.

On the sand dunes, I found this little memorial, perhaps the creation of a visiting relative ...



At another stop behind the dunes, I came across a German Pillbox ~ “Cosy’s Bunker”. It was named after Lt. W.A. “Cosy” Aitken of the 10th Platoon, B Company, Royal Winnipeg Rifles, who on his own stormed and captured it on D-Day. That morning on the beach, B Company suffered 78% casualties.




Also behind the dunes is a Canadian tank ~  “One Charlie”, a Churchill AVRE (Armoured Vehicle Royal Engineers) tank from the 26 Assault Squadron Royal Engineers 7th Canadian Infantry Brigade, which landed on Juno Beach at Graye-sur-Mer on D-Day morning.

Unfortunately, it was stopped on the beach by a massive bomb crater not long after leaving its landing craft and the crew were forced to escape the stricken vehicle. Four were killed and two injured in the process.

The tank remained buried on the beach for over 30 years until it was recovered, restored, and placed on display. Today it stands proudly just metres from where it fell to rest, as a memorial to all those who landed on Juno Beach.


In accordance with his last wishes, the ashes of Bill Dunn, the driver of One Charlie, were scattered next to the tank on November 8, 2014.

 

This morning’s experience, turned out to be much more than just a morning wander on a beach ~ may we never forget.

 

After this, I drove a little further west to the town of Arromanches and Gold Beach, where my relative Hugh Wright (Royal Engineer) landed. I got a much better views of the remains of Port Winston (Mulberry B), which I wrote about in the recent blog titled ~ “Euro 2025 ~ Gold Beach, The British Normandy Memorial and Ryes British Cemetery ...”.





Arromanches was a busy little town with lots of D-Day tourists. As I wandered around the narrow streets viewing the many “WWII War Heros” banners hanging from street poles, I wondered if I was perhaps retracing the steps of Hugh ~ he was killed later in Belgium.










Friday, 27 June 2025

Euro 2025 ~ Utah Beach, Sainte-Mère-Église and La Cambe German War Cemetery ...

Utah Beach …









Utah Beach, the westernmost beach of the five landing areas of the Normandy Invasion, was assaulted by elements of the U.S. 4th Infantry Division and was taken with relatively few casualties. The assault sectors at beach were designated (from west to east) Tare Green, Uncle Red, and Victor. During the predawn hours of D-Day, units of the 82nd and 101st airborne divisions were air-dropped inland from the landing beach. They suffered many casualties from drowning and enemy fire, but succeeded in their aim of isolating the seaborne invasion force from defending German units.



Located on the eastern shore at the base of the Cotentin Peninsula, Utah Beach was a late addition to the areas scheduled for invasion. The original plan for Operation Overlord did not call for a landing on the Cotentin, but General Dwight D. Eisenhower the supreme commander of the Allied Expeditionary Force, added it to ensure an early capture of the port of Cherbourg at the northern tip of the peninsula.

The landing plan went wrong from the beginning, strong currents beset the landing craft, and the area was obscured by smoke from the preceding shore bombardment. The force landed 1800m (2000 yards) east of the designated landing area, in the less-defended Victor sector. The assistant division commander, Brigadier General Theodore Roosevelt Jr. (the son of the 26th US President Theodore Roosevelt), quickly realized the error. Uttering his famous remark ~ “We’ll start the war from here” ~ he ordered the division to advance. In the 1962 movie “The Longest Day”, Brigadier General Theodore Roosevelt, Jr. was portrayed by Henry Fonda.

Brigadier General Theodore Roosevelt Jr. in Normandy


By the end of D-Day, few objectives had been seized, though the four exits from Utah Beach were held by the 101st Airborne, and a linkup with the 4th Division had been successfully achieved. The town of Sainte-Mère-Église was in American hands, but with the Germans counterattack, the control was tenuous. The 82nd Airborne had not made contact with forces from the beach, the western flank of the Normandy Invasion therefore was anything but secure. Losses had been heavy with each division having suffered some 1200 casualties.

Utah Beach 6 June 1944 ~


German POWs on Utah Beach


Sainte-Mère-Église



This town played a significant part in the Normandy landings because of its position in the middle of the route, which the Germans would have used to counterattack the Allied landings on Utah and Omaha Beaches. In the early morning of 6 June 1944, mixed units of the U.S. 82nd Airborne and U.S. 101st Airborne Divisions occupied the town making it one of the first to be liberated during the invasion.



The airborne landings at about 1:40am, resulted in heavy casualties. Some buildings in town caught fire illuminating the sky, and making easy targets of the descending men. Some were killed by the fire, others who were hanging from their caught parachutes from trees and utility poles, became easy targets and were shot.


German POWs in the ground of Sainte-Mère-Église town church


There is a well-known incident involving paratrooper John Steele of the 505th Parachute Infantry Regiment, whose parachute got caught on the tower roof and spire of the Sainte-Mère-Église town church. He hung there for two hours pretending to be dead until the Germans took him prisoner. He escaped four hours later and rejoined his division, when US troops of the 505th's 3rd Battalion attacked the village, capturing 30 Germans and killing another 11. He was awarded the Bronze Star for valor and the Purple Heart for being wounded in combat.

John Steele 

After the war he continued to visit the town throughout his life, and was granted an honorary citizenship of Sainte-Mère-Église. The tavern, Auberge John Steele, stands adjacent to the town square and maintains his legacy through photos, letters and articles hung on its walls.  He died of throat cancer on May 16, 1969, in Fayetteville, North Carolina. The incident was portrayed in the movie “The Longest Day” by actor Red Buttons.

Today at the same church in Sainte-Mère-Église, there an effigy of Private Steele in his Airborne uniform hanging by his parachute from the steeple. Pockmarks from gunfire are still visible in the church's stone walls. One of its stained-glass windows depicts the Virgin Mary with paratroopers falling in the foreground.







81 years after the US 82nd and 101st Airborne Divisions dropped into the hell and inferno that was Sainte-Mère-Église on 5/6 June 1944, I really do not know what to think about the town in 2025. Indeed, it was an important and relevant historical stop on this part of my “Euro 2025” trip, where my plans were always to visit and stand at the locations that played a significant role in Operation Overlord.

What I found in Sainte-Mère-Église to a far greater extent than any other D-Day location in Normandy, was the overwhelming commercialization of what happened in the town in June 1944. There were countless “souvenir” shops selling tacky items, which in my eyes were completely tasteless and off the scale disrespectful.

Even the cafés, of which there were many, used the images of American Airborne troops to advertise their burgers, drinks and ice cream ~ I did not like or appreciate any of that.

I suppose none of this would exist in Sainte-Mère-Église, if it were not for those in 2025 who cross the vast Atlantic Ocean, to buy the junk and devour the burgers.


 

La Cambe German War Cemetery …

Yesterday after my visit to Omaha Beach, Pointe du Hoc and The Normandy American Cemetery, I made my first ever visit to a German War Cemetery ~ La Cambe German War Cemetery. Out of respect, I did not want to include this visit in the same blog as the American Cemetery, so it is part of this one.

Maintained by the German War Graves Commission (Volksbund Deutsche Kriegsgräberfürsorge), the grounds are the final resting places of 21245, the largest such site in Normandy

















In the summer of 1944, more than 100000 people died during and following the Allied landings in Normandy. As the number of casualties grew on both sides, the U.S. Army’s Grave Registration Service to set up a temporary cemetery around La Cambe on 10-11 June 1944, the site was divided into two neighbouring fields, American and German. On the American side 4534 soldiers were buried (mostly casualties of the 29th Infantry Division), while on the German side 8574 soldiers were buried. The American dead were later exhumed and depending on the decision of their families, were either returned to the U.S. or interred at the Normandy American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer.

In 1954, at the beginning of the Volksbund Deutsche Kriegsgräberfürsorge reburial work, La Cambe War Cemetery was already one of the largest provisional WWII German military cemeteries in France, with about 8000 dead. Subsequently, the remains of 12000 German soldiers from 1400 graves, as well as another 700 bodies found at scattered war sites in Normandy, were interred at La Cambe. On 21 September 1961, the La Cambe War Cemetery was officially inaugurated.

The cemetery was designed by architect Robert Tischler. One of his central design principles is a narrow entrance through which only one person at a time can enter the site. Tischler's goal was to bring people to rest and silence when they enter the memorial. Communal graves are at the centre of the site, as a high tumulus, flanked by two statues and topped by a large dark cross in basalt lava, which marks the resting place for 207 unknown and 89 identified German soldiers, interred together in a mass grave. The tumulus is surrounded by 49 rectangular grave fields with up to 400 graves in each. Within the large grass areas, there are groups of symbolic crosses that bear no names. Each grave within the 49 fields is identified by flat stone markers.

The sign at the front of the cemetery reads in English and German ~

Until 1947, this was an American cemetery. The remains were exhumed and shipped to the United States. It has been German since 1948 and contains over 21000 graves.

‘With its melancholy rigour, it is a graveyard for soldiers not all of whom had chosen either the cause or the fight.

They too have found rest in our soil of France.


Yesterday as I was walking through La Cambe German War Cemetery, the first such site I have ever visited, I thought about a takeaway lesson that can be learned from the experience ...

The lesson that I will take with me, is that actions can have consequences. The actions that came from the ego of one man Adolf Hitler, and its consequences, led to the deaths of over 21000 of his own countrymen within this cemetery. In his war of aggression on Europe, 4.3 million Germans serving in the military were killed, along with estimates of up to 500,000 civilians who perished in the country's bombed out towns and cities. 

Actions have consequences does not only apply to Hitler, it applies to all of the 21000 who surrounded me at this eerily somber and somewhat haunting location. Whether they were drafted, or were active, eager and willing participants, they still fought in support of an evil, despotic regime. I suspect the one thing that everyone of these men, who lie in perpetuity within this cemetery, would say if they could speak now ~ is be careful how you live, because your actions have consequences.

I am glad that I stopped at  La Cambe German War Cemetery, it is part of history, it might be an ugly part of history, but all history deserves to be remembered.


After the cemetery I went over the adjoining visitor’s centre ...

I am well versed on the events of Normandy and WWII, therefore with that knowledge, I could easily see the displays within the centre struggled at times, to present a balanced view of the difficult historical events for Germany.

Like mine, many German families lost sons, husbands and fathers in both WWI and WWII, for which they would all suffer the very same pain of that loss ~ something that is not often considered.

In the visitor’s centre, I did struggle with my emotions over some of displays covering German war casualties buried at La Cambe, a couple of the photos showed them with the SS insignia on the collar of their uniforms. To balance that (I suppose), there was also an extensive display about the Massacre de l'abbaye d'Ardenne, the murder of 20 Canadian POW’s by the 12th SS Panzer Division, which I covered in an earlier blog.

I did feel a high level of empathy for those that had the task of preparing the displays and presentations within the visitor’s centre, it would not have been easy for them.

I wrote in the visitors book ...