Tonight I will be staying at a hostel, the Hvoll Hostel. The word hvoll if pronounced by a native English speaker would be read similar to the English word hovel, which means small, squalid, unpleasant, or a poorly constructed dwelling ~ I relieved to report, the hostel which is located extremely remote area, is none of those. It is basic, and reminds of the youth hostels I used as a backpacking laddie in Scotland ~ absolutely perfect for one night. Photos of the hostel are at the end of this blog.
I did
research the word "Hvoll", and found that an “Hv” in Icelandic is a sound made by
starting to say 'k' and 'v' at the same time, with air escaping, or a breathy
'h' followed by a 'v'.” ~ I did try this multiple times, and failed miserably, and almost had a very serious verbal injury …
Vík
My first stop today after a hearty Icelandic breakfast was at Vik. Known in Icelandic as Vík í Mýrdal, it is a charming village on the southernmost point of Iceland’s mainland. With a population of just 318, incredibly it is the largest settlement in the area. The village was affected by volcanic ash during the 2010 eruptions of Eyjafjallajökull, acting as a key support hub, hosting an evacuation centre for nearby areas affected by heavy ash fall and potential glacial flooding.
Vikurfjara Black Sand Beach
Just a short walk within Vik is Vikurfjara Black Sand Beach. Just like its coastal neighbour Reynisfjara Beach, it is known for its black sands, dramatic coastal views, and the unpredictable and powerful waves.
On the beach is a memorial to German Sailors, it was erected in collaboration with the German navy museum at Bremerhaven in Germany, and remembers the 1000 seamen, who lost their lives on German fishing boats in Icelandic waters between 1898 and 1952. The memorial is also meant as a thank you to the many Icelandic helpers, who took care of the casualty fisherman and saved many lives.
Eldhraun
Lava Field
On the way
to the Hvoll Hostel, I made a few stops, the first being the impressive
Eldhraun Lava Field, which is the biggest lava flow in the world. It occurred
during the Lakagigar Crater eruption of June 1783 to February 1784. The
enormous site of 565 square kilometres, is where the Apollo 11 crew trained for
their moonwalk. Today, the lava field has a thickness of about 12m and is
covered with moss. The moss gives the landscape an alien or unearthly look, it
is extremely fragile and takes about a hundred years to grow and is therefore highly
protected.
Locally the enormous Lakagigar Crater eruption is known as the “Skaftáreldar” (Skaftá fires), scientists consider it to have been the most poisonous eruption ever recorded, a cataclysmic event, not only for Iceland but also for Europe. In Iceland, it caused disease, crop failure, and famine. As a result, between 53% and 82% of domestic animals and 20% of the human population perished. In Britain the summer of 1783 was known as the Sand Summer due to the fallout of ash. The eruption haze blocked sunlight, causing crop failures and famine in parts of Europe, because of this, many historians speculate the eruptions helped contribute to the French Revolution ~ giving perhaps a convenient excuse ….!
The photos below show the roped off trail through this part of the Eldhraun Lava Field. You will note there is no moss covering, leaving dangerously exposed and extremely rough, sharp edged lava. A trip or fall here would be very nasty and somewhat memorable.
Fjaðrárgljúfur
Canyon
Further
along from the Eldhraun Lava Field, I enjoyed a great hike at Fjaðrárgljúfur
Canyon, an impressive natural gorge known for its unique and dramatic landscape.
The steep palagonite walls of the canyon, shaped by volcanic activity, cradles
the thick moss covered winding path of the Fjadra River that shines in various
shades of green. The river’s cold clear water has its source from nearby
glaciers. Rated as one of Iceland’s most breathtaking natural wonders, this dramatic
glacial canyon was carved over millions of years into what I would describe as
serpent shape. Towering at around 100m deep and stretching 2Km long, certainly an
awe-inspiring example of natural erosion.
Stjórnarfoss
A little further east from Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon is Stjórnarfoss, a waterfall that is nearly 15m in high, but appears much shorter in person because of the stunning wide dome shape of its cliff. A curtain of many narrow water streams cascades down the rock formation into a small, flat pool of water.
The
waterfall has two parts, an upper and lower tier. Its cliff’s dome shape makes
the lower level more prominent than the waterfall’s upper body. In addition,
the waterfall’s upper level is hardly seen if you are standing close to the
water.
Fossálar River
and Waterfall
This river and
waterfall is located just metres from Iceland’s Ring Road (Route 1), amidst vast
lava fields, it is known for its backdrop of a rugged landscape and lush
greenery.
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